“Wat Pa Pae” is located in the mountains between Mae Taeng and Pai in northern Thailand, about 60 km from Chiang Mai. Dense forest, but little sun. In the monastery there is a small old Sala, entirely made of wood, a small kitchen and another open Sala. In addition, about 12 kutis (bungalows) in the forest. About 3-5 monks live in the monastery. Male laypeople are accepted in smaller numbers for individual retreats; women can only stay here if a male layperson is also staying in the Wat (Vinaya).
Arrival from Chiang Mai: By bus (direction Fang) or Songthaeo (pickup line taxi) to Mae Malai. From there with another Songthaeo into the mountains to Baan Pa Pae. The bus to Pai goes via Pa Pae, but this bus does not run very often. In Baan Pa Pae follow the signs (also in English) to the police station. Shortly before the post office turn right, follow the sign to the Wat (unfortunately only in Thai). About 1.5 km steep ascent to the Wat.
No registration possible.
Santisukh Tudongsathaan used to be a stop on the long Tudong trail to Mae Hong Son. Now that the road is finished, the coming and going of monks has noticeably decreased – not to the disadvantage.
Than Ajahn Prajoed teaches in formal talks on the uposatha days and is available for questions during afternoon tea or by appointment. Ajahn Prajoed is a tradition-independent Mahanikaya forest monk, knows and lives good discipline, practices a lot and is a skilled meditation teacher.
All methods of the four foundations of mindfulness are applied, with emphasis on the first foundation, especially contemplation of the 32 parts and cemetery contemplation. In addition, other reflection methods.
All guests commit to observing the eight Silas (virtue rules). Men usually wear white or black trousers and a white shirt. Women wear a black or white Phaa Thung (wrap skirt) and a white blouse.
Daily schedule: After the monks’ alms round, the morning meal is at about 7:30 a.m.; afterwards the cleaning work around and in the kitchen (not much to do). In the afternoon, paths are swept, water boiled, wood chopped, etc. In the evening there is usually an hour of chanting and an hour of group meditation. There is plenty of time for and great emphasis is placed on intensive individual practice.
Knowledge of the Thai language is required! Unfortunately, Than Ajahn Prajoed does not speak English.
All guests are assigned a kuti. The huts are simple but charming. There is no electricity or telephone.
The only daily meal is taken in the morning and consists exclusively of what the monks bring from the alms round. As a rule, this is enough to feed a few laypeople. Laypeople can possibly set aside something for a snack shortly before noon. In the late afternoon there are soft drinks, coffee or tea. The drinking water is boiled rainwater.
Medical care: Good by Asian standards. In the provincial capital Chiang Mai there are hospitals and pharmacies. The area is not considered a malaria area, but dengue fever has increased in recent years.
Costs: Guests have the opportunity to give a donation or go shopping for the Wat, e.g. soft drinks, coffee, sugar.
Climate: Located over 1000 meters high, rather continental climate: ideal for the hot season from March to June. In the rainy season, drying laundry can become a challenge.
What to bring: Before the stay, an alarm clock, a good flashlight (possibly spare bulb and spare batteries), bathing slippers, water bottle, insect repellent should be procured. These things are all available in Chiang Mai.
Note: Infrastructure for retreat guests is not sufficiently available. Laypeople can stay by arrangement, provided they have a certain independence in practice. The monastery is run in a very traditional and Vinaya-faithful manner. Ajahn Prajoed somewhat shuns the public in order to preserve the quiet and “old-fashioned” character of the Wat, very much to the benefit of the practice conditions.