Source: Dieter Baltruschat, updated by Volkmar in Oct. 2006
Address: Wat Suan Mokkh
Chaiya
Surat Thani 84110
Thailand
Internet: www.suanmokkh.org
Internet: www.suanmokkh-idh.org (website with retreat information)
Arrival: From Bangkok best by train to Chaiya (not every train stops!). The journey takes about 12 hours, with the 2nd class sleeper car being highly recommended (reserve in advance if possible!). From Chaiya by songthaew (shared taxi) about 7 km for 15 Baht to Wat Suan Mokkh. From Surat Thani or Phun Phin (train station) about 1 hour by bus departing hourly for about 40 Baht. Please be sure to arrive before dark.
Entry requirements: A four-week stay permit is available free of charge at the airport. Three-month visas must be obtained before entry at Thai embassies or consulates.
Registration: No advance registration (arrive in time).
Leadership: Ajahn Poh is in his mid-70s, has many years of experience in meditation and teaching the Buddha-Dhamma. He leads the Wat in the tradition of the famous Dhamma teacher Ajahn Buddhadasa. The teachings are given by Ajahn Poh, monks, or Western practitioners. No teacher refers to themselves as a teacher, but as a Dhamma friend. Written questions are answered after the teachings. If personal questions arise, they can be discussed in a conversation with Ajahn Poh or others.
Description: The “Garden of Liberation” is located about 640 km south of Bangkok, 50 km from Surat Thani (ferry to Ko Samui and Ko Phangan). In a beautiful forest area with a small hill and pond, paths are laid out along which the monks’ accommodations are located. In addition, there are some larger communal buildings such as the Spiritual Theatre (art exhibition), the Dhamma-Ships (assembly buildings), and the “guest kitchen”. Unfortunately, Highway 41 is within earshot.
The retreats take place in the retreat center, which is about 1.5 km away and relatively quiet. There is space for a maximum of 140 people. On the large grounds there are many coconut palms and two hot springs. During breaks, one can easily stretch one’s legs.
Tradition and teacher: Theravada, methods according to Ajahn Buddhadasa. Introduction to meditation (sitting, standing, walking) and basics of Buddhist teaching.
Meditation technique: During the entire retreat, Anapanasati (contemplation during inhalation and exhalation) is practiced as Vipassana meditation (development of insight). Ajahn Buddhadasa does not distinguish between Samatha and Vipassana meditation.
Anapanasati is taught in four stages. Contemplations of the body (Kaya), feelings (Vedana), mind (Citta), and the realization of the highest Dhamma. These four contemplations are divided into four steps each.
Rules: Each participant commits to completing the entire retreat, adhering to the schedule, maintaining noble silence, not reading (except meditation description) and not writing (except notes and meditation diary). In addition, sexual activities are to be ceased and the eight Silas (eight precepts) are to be observed. Clothing should be comfortable, practical, and appropriate (no shorts or sleeveless T-shirts). Each participant should take on a task for the community (e.g., sweeping, refilling water, etc.) and strive to lead a spiritual life.
Daily schedule:
4.00: morning bell
4.30: morning reading
4.45: sitting meditation
5.15: exercise (e.g., Yoga)
7.00: sitting meditation
8.00: breakfast
10.00: Dhamma talk
11.00: walking meditation
11.45: sitting meditation
12.30: lunch
14.30: meditation instruction
15.30: walking meditation
16.15: sitting meditation
17.00: chanting
18.00: tea
19.30: sitting meditation
20.00: group walking meditation
20.30: sitting meditation
21.00: end
21:30: lights out
Course duration and dates: On the first of each month a 10-day course (ending on the 11th in the morning). Since no advance registration is possible, one must arrive in time, i.e., at least one day before (accommodation in the dormitory possible). Registration on the last day of each month from about 7:00 a.m. at the retreat center.
Language(s): The teachings are in English. Thai-English takes some getting used to and is often not easy to understand. An English/German dictionary is available.
Accommodation: Between or before retreats in the dormitory (max. 14 people) at Wat Suan Mokkh. During the retreat in a single cell (women’s or men’s house) at the retreat center. Simple but clean toilets and washing facilities for laundry are available. There are no showers, but mandis (water basin + plastic bowl). In the evening, there is the possibility to bathe in a hot spring. Men need shorts (no swim trunks), women a sarong (no swimsuit). Bathing slippers prevent athlete’s foot!
Sleeping is on straw mats placed directly on concrete or wooden surfaces. If this seems too hard, it is advisable to bring a sleeping pad (Ridge-Rest or Therm-A-Rest mats are somewhat expensive but quite comfortable). Mosquito nets and blankets can be borrowed. A light sleeping bag can be useful especially in the cooler season. Sitting cushions and mats for meditation are available.
Most daily necessities are available in the small shops outside the Wat or in Chaiya. Before the retreat, a flashlight, shorts (men), sarong (cloth used as garment, blanket, mosquito protection), bathing slippers, insect repellent, and toiletries should be obtained. In the rainy season, an umbrella is very useful.
Meals: For breakfast there is rice soup and a hot drink. For lunch there is rice, two vegetarian dishes, and fruit (self-service). In the evening there is a hot drink. Drinking water (rainwater) is additionally filtered and therefore safe to drink (even higher safety with brought disinfectant).
Medical care: Very good by Asian standards, the nearest hospital is in Surat Thani and the nearest pharmacy in Chaiya. The area is not considered a malaria area, but malaria is prevalent in other parts of Thailand. The hygienic conditions in the Wat are good.
Costs: A ten-day retreat costs about 2000 Baht. Outside retreat times, overnight stay in the dormitory of the main monastery and evening tea are free, voucher for breakfast or lunch about 30 Baht.
Climate: March, April (from April very hot). In the main travel season from Dec.-Mar. it is very crowded. Nov.-Dec. are rainy season in southern Thailand.
Remarks: Very suitable for beginners, very good conditions.
Cheap flights to Bangkok are available from about 500 euros. A warm jacket can be useful for morning meditation. People with back problems should bring a good sleeping pad. Books for the library are gladly accepted.
Since communication is in English, it is useful to read an English-language book about Buddhism beforehand to practice the relevant vocabulary (e.g., “Mindfulness With Breathing” or “Heartwood of the Bodhi Tree” by Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, published by Wisdom Publications, Boston). Further information and a short meditation guide on the internet.
The two books by Buddhadasa Bhikkhu are also available in German as “Anapanasati-Die sanfte Heilung der spirituellen Krankheit” and “Kernholz des Bodhibaums – Sunnata verstehen und Leben” from Books On Demand and can be downloaded for free from the internet at www.dhamma-dana.de along with other texts.
For 120 Baht, the booklet “Anapanasati – Die sanfte Heilung der spirituellen Krankheit” translated into German can be purchased on site, in which the meditation practice is explained. This booklet can be downloaded for free from the internet at Dhamma-Dana.de, or obtained through bookstores under ISBN 3-8311-3271-2.
Book recommendation: “Anapanasati – Die sanfte Heilung der spirituellen Krankheit” and “Kernholz des Bodhibaums – Sunnata verstehen und leben” are published in German by “Books On Demand” and can be downloaded for free from the internet at www.buddhadasa.de along with other recommended books and texts by Ajahn Buddhadasa.
Photo gallery: [Images]
Video: [Embedded YouTube video]